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| YOU SAY TOMAYTO, I SAY TOMAHTO |

NOT ALL TOMATOES ARE CREATED EQUAL by Theresa Crabtree With an estimated 7,500 varieties of tomatoes to choose from, it can be very confusing when it comes time to decide what type of tomatoes to plant. One thing to consider is whether the tomatoes will ripen early or late in the season. For instance, I like to have some early varieies, because... well, I love them and don't want to wait! However, I also like late season tomatoes that ripen the same time as the jalapenos, so I can preserve homemade salsa and spaghetti. Yum! Yum! You can also sun dry and/or dehydrate tomatoes for pizza, salad and munching. Roma and cherry tomatoes are a good choice because they have less seeds and are meaty. Watery varieties take longer to dry and the end result is blander than meatier varieties. Another perk for Romas is they produce a lot of fruit,giving you more 'maters than many other varieties. Size of the tomato is also important to consider. Midget, dwarf and patio varieties, which are generally an inch or less in variety, grow well in hanging baskets. Cherry tomatoes are about the size of ... maybe you guessed it ... cherries, or a little larger. You can find vine varieties growing anywhere from a couple of feet to seven feet tall. Like Romas, one of the perks is they are generous producers. If you don’t have garden space, dwarf or smaller varieties will grow well in pots on your porch or patio. Just keep in mind they made need to be watered more frequently when grown in outdoor pots. One of our favorite varieties for munching are pear tomatoes. They are small but grow prolifically. Since they don’t have a lot of seeds or a central core, they are great for making tomato paste and salsa. If you prefer a sweeter tomato, try orange or yellow varieties, since they have a higher sugar content than red tomatoes. As might be expected, larger varieties of tomatoes such as beefsteak, take longer to mature and may not be well-suited to areas that have a short growing season. If you would like to extend your ability to have tomatoes beyond the normal growing season, there are now winter storage tomatoes on the market. These tomatoes are set later in the season and harvested when the fruit is partially ripe. When stored properly, they will last 12 weeks or more. Another factor to take into consideration is whether the tomato is a determinate or indeterminate plant. A determinate plant is genetically modified to produce fruit then die, or terminate, its growth. Whereas an indeterminate plant will continue to grow and produce fruit until outside forces such as frost or disease kills it. Determinate tomatoes tend to be early ripeners and bushier varieties, usually not needing to be trellised. Indeterminate plants generally grow 3 to 10 feet and need to be trellised. If the fruit sits on the ground, they are more likely to rot or be munched on by roly-polies or a myriad of other hungry insects. Two common diseases that can create havoc for your tomatoes are fusarium wilt and verticillium wilt. Fusarium wilt is caused by a fungus in the soil that enters the roots and plugs the water conducting vessels. The leaves wilt, especially during the heat of the day, and eventually the whole plant will perish. Many varieties have been cultivated to be resistant to these two killers. You’ll know if they are so bred if you see the following letters after the cultivar name. “V” means the plant is resistant to verticillium wilt. “F” means the plant is resistant to fusarium wilt. “VFN” indicates the plant is also resistant to nematodes and “VFNT” means they are additionally resistant to tobacco mosaic. Another choice to consider is whether you prefer an heirloom or hybrid variety of tomato. Heirloom varieties, like family jewelry, are valued, saved and passed down for generations. They are popular with home gardeners and organic growers, due to the wide variety of shapes, color and flavor of the fruit. Hybrid plants are the result of cross breeding pollen from the “parent” plants to combine qualities found in both plants. Features such as size, taste, color and abundance of production are the goal. Thus one may cross-pollinate a large variety of tomato with a smaller, sweet variety to create a large, sweet tomato. Hybrids should not be confused with genetically modified organisms (GMOs), which involves the insertion or deletion of genes. Genetically modified foods first came on the market in the 1990s. In my opinion, GMO foods should be avoided because research is proving that genetically altered foods can produce strange genetic changes within the human body. There is also the danger of large corporations such as Monsanto gaining control over farmers due to patents on these seeds, but that is a whole ‘nother story. GMO tomatoes first appeared in the US market in 1994. Due to the failure to produce the desired results, they are no longer available in the US and UE, yet are grown in small quantities in China. Scientists are in the process of using genetic modification to create the “perfect” tomato for commercial growers, so be watchful for the re-appearance of GMO tomatoes in the future. As an important aside, I’d like to include information on how you can tell if fruits or veggies are GMO. Although organic and GMO labeling laws can be arbitrary, since 1990, grocery stores have been using Price Look-Up codes (PLU codes) to make check-out and inventory control faster and more efficient. This is the purpose of those coded labels you find on fruit. The codes are usually a four-digit number. If the produce is organic, this four-digit number will be prefaced by a “9,” whereas if the product is genetically modified, it will be prefaced with an “8.” As you can tell, when it comes to choosing what type of tomato to plant, there are many things to consider beyond whether tomatoes are a fruit or a vegetable (the votes are in. . . tomatoes are a fruit!) and how to pronounce it (as I hear Ella Fitzgerald singing, “You say to-may-to, I say to- mah-to. . .”). |
PRESERVING TOMATOES There is no better tasting tomato than one eaten fresh from the garden, yet, somehow that yumminess is even better when they are dehydrated. Whether eaten as a snack or added as a pizza topping or into fresh salads, soups, pastas... dehydrating tomatoes is easy and a great way to enjoy tomatoes well past the growing season. Tomatoes are loaded with nutrition and well known for its cancer fighting anti-oxidant, lycopene. DEHYDRATING TOMATOES USING A DEHYDRATOR DEHYDRATING TOMATOES USING AN OVEN SUN DRYING TOMATOES |
| FOR NEXT YEAR’S GARDEN The following information is from the booklet “Basic Seed Saving” Easy step by step instructions for 18 vegetables and 29 wildflowers by Bill McDorman. www.seedstrust.com If possible, allow tomatoes to completely ripen before harvesting for seed production. Cut the tomato into halves at its equator, opening the vertical cavities that contain the seeds. Gently squeeze out from the cavities the jelly-like substance that contains the seeds. If done carefully, the tomato itself can still be eaten or saved for canning, sun-drying or dehydrating. Place the jelly and seeds into a small jar or glass. (Add a little water if you are processing only one or two small tomatoes.) Loosely cover the container and place in a warm location, 60-75 degrees Fahrenheit for about three days. Stir once a day. A layer of fungus will begin to appear on the top of the mixture after a couple of days. This fungus not only eats the gelatinous coat that surrounds each seed and prevents germination, it also produces antibiotics that help to control seed-borne diseases like bacterial spot, canker and speck. After three days, fill the seed container with warm water. Let the contents settle and begin pouring out the water along with pieces of tomato pulp and immature seeds floating on top. Note: Viable seeds are heavier and settle to the bottom of the jar. Repeat this process until water being poured out is almost clear and clean seeds line the bottom of the container. Pour these clean seeds into a strainer that has holes smaller than the seeds. Let the excess water drip out and invert the strainer onto paper towels or piece of newspaper. Allow the seeds to dry completely (usually a day or two). Break up the clumps into individual seeds, label and store in a packet or plastic bag. |
| CANNING TOMATOES The following information is from the “Blue Book guide to preserving” published by the Ball Corporation (My preserving Bible!) www.freshpreserving.com |